Points Updated / Tin Foil Series

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All Crash & Burn Points have been updated to most recent races.  All 2015 points standings have been posted as well.

So I (the moderator of the site, Bill Martin) once a year for our Oktoberfest weekend races will throw together tinfoil bodies for a single night only series.  It’s something I tried to do first around 1994 or 95 by wrapping tinfoil around the bodies of Racing Champions cars I had at the time (which I had a ton as I was only turning 14 years old at the time). Because of the wheel base difference, at the time I introduced them the only cars I knew they’d fit on were Tyco IMG_20160116_152652716440’s of the divisions we ran.  The results were hilarious.  Paint flew, it was a great time.  I didn’t bring them back again on any frequency until 2010.  They have now become a great deal of a fun novelty event for Oktoberfest.  We now run them on 3 gear aurora style chassis as the wheel bases are perfect and, unlike the 440’s, the crashes aren’t happening at a thousand freaking miles per hour.

The process of making the chassis is fairly simple, but takes a bit of trail and error.  First things first…they will never be perfectly flat…it’s just not possible.  There’ll always be a few wrinkles here and there, but just like painting your Saturday Night local track race car, IMG_20160116_153443959these wrinkles disappear from your eyes once you paint them.  Since we only do this once a year I tend to paint them fairly elaborately (though in 2015 I was short on time and had to half ass a few).  Best paint for the job is either Acrylic or Enamel Testors paint.  Acrylic will dry faster, but I feel like the Enamel is a bit thicker and might give the bodies a bit more stiffness in the little stiffness they have.

The bodies I use are mostly from racing champions cars between the 1993 and the 1998 series.  The best seem to be the thunderbirds from about 1993 – 1995.  I’ll usually fold the tinfoil 2 – 4 layers thick depending on the quality of the foil.  Do all painting on them before making ANY cuts to try to get the tinfoil off.  When it comes time for cutting, cut the windows you want cut out first (typically just the drivers side and passenger side windows).  Color the rest of the windows in black.  You’ll need the structure.  After cutting the windows out,  CAREFULLY cut out the hood and truck lids, but only IMG_20160116_155046884cut out the strips along the top of the fenders and the quarters.  No need to cut them completely out.  This way when the cars get hit they’ll buckle like they’re supposed to in the real world.  It also gives you more points of access to fix them if they need fixing before the next race.  After you have that cut out you can cut out the wheels.  This can be tricky as the slot car wheels are bigger than the Racing Champions car’s wheels so you’ll have to carefully cut along the bodies and make the openings larger.  Finally after that you can cut off the remaining extra bits of tin foil that line the sides, the nose, and the tail’s bumper.

When you’re ready to pull the body off, be very careful around the spoiler area.  It’s also very easy to tear the tinfoil when trying to mold the body.  If you do, just start over.  You’ll be hard pressed to get a body off if paint seeps through that tear in the spoiler.

Once the body is off you’re ready to mount on the slot car.  Best tape IMG_20160116_153027106to use is the thicker 3M double sided tape.  Lay it on top of itself 3 layer thick for the right side of the chassis, 2 layers thick for the left side of the chassis.  This will like it up perfectly for proper coverage.  Best chassis are Aurora 3 gears.  You’ll want to move your front axle to the front of the 3 holes for the it.

And presto, you have Tin foil cars!  If you’re planning on giving this a go, I urge you to test a few before going through the painting process.  It’d suck to spend all that time to find out something went wrong.  Good luck and happy racing.

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